PST 2 (pre-service training)

Hello again….we have traveled to Vanadzor again today to attend a lecture from an American professor on Armenian architecture, folklore and miracles….or something to that extent (I am writing this the night before and can’t remember the exact name). My brain is incredibly full. I learn one thing and forget another….

I think I can safely say that I have made it through my first bout of true “culture shock” at this point. And after learning more about culture shock today in training, I know that I am completely normal! That’s a first…. We are told there are four stages, the first being “initial euphoria” and the second being “irritation and frustration.” I haven’t made it to the latter two yet. We have spent the majority of this week being asked by various staff at different meetings, interviews and classes how we are doing…almost to the point of being obnoxious, it has been asked so may times. Are there problems? How are you feeling? Your host family is okay? And on and on…and the answer was always “I’m great, my host family is great, my site is great, Peace Corps is great!” Well, when I got home last night from vanadzor, things inexplicably stopped being great. I didn’t want to speak Armenian, I didn’t want to be on my best behavior, I didn’t want to be on display, I didn’t want my host mom to tell any more neighbors about how fast I can type (apparently a very impressive feat that everyone in the village now knows about…). I was just simply done with it all. So, at 8:30, I told them I was going to bed and sat in my room and typed, journaled and listened to music. I talk to my fellow trainees about it today, and yesterday seemed to be some sort of trigger for lots of us. Perhaps it was the break in our routine of living in the village and speaking Armenian (well, attempting to speak Armenia badly), to seeing all 45 members of our group and speaking English all day. Or maybe it was just time…who knows. Ironically, this happens to us after the PC staff are all done asking how we are feeling.

Regardless, today was much better. Still a center day, meaning we are all in Vanadzor. (the group has been split up into 6 different villages around the city, and consequently don’t see each other except for Wednesday and Thursday). But, full of good information and quality time with friends, And, I finally got to the internet! This was quite an accomplishment. On Wednesday I spent 45 minutes watching yahoo try to load (it never did) and then paid someone 200 drams to do so. Today, the first place I went wouldn’t let me use my memory stick, the second place couldn’t connect, and finally, the third place worked….like a charm. For those of you who are scoring at home, that is four attempts, a lot of walking, I don’t remember how many drams and endless amounts of frustration. However, the fruits of my labor are that I now know where to go first. The internet is going to be one of my challenges for the next 2 years, as it is consistently unreliable, and difficult to get to. Even now, it is an hour bus ride to Vanadzor, who knows how far it will be when I get my permanent site. For this reason, I am going to do my best to keep this site updated instead of trying to email everyone—I hope to get at least one post a week or every two weeks at the very least.

My host family is still trying to figure out this strange American who is living in their house. They are absolutely impressed by my computer, and all gather around whenever I get it out. My sister often looks over my shoulder and watches me type, which is a bit disconcerting and distracting, but she doesn’t know the language well enough to really read what I am writing. Still, the level of privacy I am used to as an American simply doesn’t exist in this country. My family does their best to accommodate my American customs, but I can tell it is strange for them. Alvart (Armenian for Rose), my mother, is very worried about me. I take showers in the morning and might catch a cold. I walk barefoot in the house, and might catch a cold. I sneezed once, do I have a cold? I don’t eat much, am I okay? My backpack is too heavy, I need more lunch, another cookie, more coffee, etc., etc. It is very strange and almost smothering at times, but also amusing. Our LCF’s do a good job of explaining that American customs are different…but still….

I might have a cold….. (not really, of course. For those of you who are concerned, I am completely healthy right now...although it is only a matter of time...we have been assured by the PC doctors)

The food continues to be wonderful, and ample. I counted 11 different items at the breakfast table the other day. Every meal (breakfast not withstanding) contains hats (Armenian bread), matszun (an Armenian version of yogurt, that is thicker than American yogurt and not sweet, but locally made and very good….and the root of a popular drink called tan, which I have yet to try), varung and lolik (cucumbers and tomatoes), and banij (cheese, also local). There is also usually some type of mis (meat), some more types of carbs, fruits, and vegetables. I have had marinated beet leaves—never seen them before now, marinated tree mushrooms, which are amazing, and fresh, local, strawberries, cherries, plums, apples, eggs, beef, chicken, etc. etc. Armenian coffee (similar to Turkish coffee) follows every meal, and often becomes a meal in itself as well. I have already had about a million cups of coffee and have only been here one week. Fortunately the cups are about shot glass size so I am not buzzing too badly. They also have a nice herbal tea, which they put fruit preserves in, as we might use honey—very good! (shat lav!). They make a fruit drink in a similar fashion—by dumping raspberry (or cherry) preserves in a pitcher and then adding water. I am learning how to communicate to my family that the food is very good, but I don’t want any more. In fact, I might be willing to say that THE most useful phrase I have learned since arriving is “gusht em” (I am full). Yesterday I even managed to tell my host mother that I only needed one sandwich to take to school…not two, both of which were about as big as my head….and three cookies. I haven’t had any more hotdogs (neproshik) lately, but I did have something that resembled spam for breakfast yesterday, and then a sandwich of fried spam and fired potatoes for lunch…mmmm. The joys of living in a foreign country…hmmm.

Well, language classes begin early in the morning, and I have to wake up in time to take a shower (after my moms starts the water for me), eat breakfast, walk to Eric’s house, decline a second breakfast and then continue the 20 minute walk to school. I have gained enough independence now that I walk by myself to eric’s, which is close and then we walk together the rest of way. This will be another point of adjustment for me as a woman in this country. I am so used to doing what I want, when I want, where I want, without having to find someone to accompany me. Fortunately, the men in our group seem to be very understanding and are willing to walk with us whenever necessary.

It was great to hear from all of you via email! Hadjokgutsuyn! (good bye!)